Apart from having good suits, it is nice to have some individual jackets i.e. blazers and sport coats. As we all know, they are a bit more casual but still very smart.
While there are many great options when it comes to jackets, there are two that are absolutely essential for the well-dressed man. That’s not to say you shouldn’t have more – more if you’re starting out, these are the best and most versatile ones.
The navy blazer
Nothing beats the navy blazer in terms of versatility. If worn with a tie and dark-grey trousers, it will fit into most formal or semi-formal events. And if worn with an open shirt and jeans, it can be fairly casual and be useful for something as simple as a Saturday family get-together.
Once you own a navy blazer, you’ll probably end up using it more than your other jackets. Simply due to its versatility and the fact that it’s easy to mix and match.
A high-quality ready-to-wear blazer might last you 10 years. A bespoke one that is well-maintained, around 30 years. So it’s really a long-term investment.
The exact fabric and weave really depends on where you live and when you’d like to use the blazer. Those living in warmer climates, or those simply planning to use the blazer in summer and spring, should consider a blazer made of wool in a hopsack weave. If you live in an outright tropical climate, consider high-twist-wool for the blazer; it can work visually, and it will feel even more cooling.
If you live in a very cold place, and you want to use it in autumn and winter as well, consider a heavier wool fabric and possible a weave such as twill. Wearing a hopsack navy blazer is still possible in the colder season, you just have to layer it more – wear an undershirt under the buttoned shirt, use a cashmere turtleneck instead of a shirt, add a scarf, etc. Many solid options.
What trousers go well with a navy blazer? Depending on the level of formality:
- Grey twill or whipcord trousers
- Grey flannel trousers (a classic combination)
- Light brown wool trousers (weaves may vary; an alternative to the grey colour)
- Beige wool trousers
- Off-white wool trousers (a classic combination)
- Beige or khaki chinos (commonly seen in modern times)
- Blue jeans (also common)
Should you wear a tie with the blazer? Depends. If you’re wearing the blazer with any kind of wool trousers, yes. With chinos or jeans, probably not – although you still could, if you like.
A navy blazer generally looks good with striped ties. When not using a tie, add a pocket square instead. A white one will suffice in most cases.
Due to its historic relation to the sea, not everyone feels comfortable in the traditional blazer. An alternative option could be a dark blue wool sports jacket that lacks the brass buttons. It will look fairly similar, but a bit smarter, and you’ll avoid the sailor connotation.
And if you do like the idea of a blazer, but the navy colour just doesn’t work with your skin tone, it would be possible to wear a forest green or burgundy blazer (with either gold or silver brass buttons) instead.
The brown tweed jacket
A brown tweed jacket looks very different than a navy blazer. It is much more autumn/winter, due to its heavy woolen fabric. Tweed feels very warm and isolating, so it’s comfortable when the temperature drops.
It also simplifies your wardrobe a bit: That you can use your brown tweed jacket when it’s cold, and the navy blazer on those occasions when it’s a bit warmer but you still need a jacket.
Tweed comes in many different colours and designs. Many love the checkered tweed jackets, as well as grey and dark green tweed. We love those too, but the plain brown tweed jacket is the easiest to mix and match, so it has the most potential as a cornerstone wardrobe piece. It should be your first, and from there you can expand and buy more tweed in the future.
Tweed jackets go well with many of the same trousers that work for a navy blazer: Grey wool trousers, preferably flannels, chinos, jeans etc. Blue jeans should be dark in colour, though, otherwise there could be a mismatch. A tweed jacket also works with corduroys, or with trousers that are made of tweed as well. Overall, you have many options, and since tweed is a bit more casual by nature, you can also play around with the combinations much more.
Functionally speaking, tweed jackets are excellent for shooting, hunting, fishing, taking walks around the countryside. But you can also wear tweed in the city. If wearing it in the city, it is best to ‘urbanise’ the style a bit. Use the brown tweed jacket with flannels or chinos, and wear a light blue shirt underneath. That makes it look much more urban and modern, while preserving the history, too.
Many stores sell ready-to-wear tweed jackets. Some good options are Cordings and Walker Slater.
Of course, if you have access to a quality tailoring house and enough funds to safely afford it, we advise going bespoke.
A bespoke tweed jacket is a thing of beauty. You can choose top quality Harris tweed, or perhaps even better, the tweed that Fox Brothers offer, and it will be made exactly to your measurements and body balance. Considering how sturdy tweed is, a bespoke jacket may last you up to 40-50 years. It would only have to be maintained through regular brushing, hanging in fresh air, and perhaps a lining change every 8 years or so.
More pieces to consider
Again, if you could only have two jackets, go for a navy blazer and a brown tweed jacket.
These two pieces have the versatility to be foundations for any wardrobe, and they tend to look good on most people. So if you’re keeping the wardrobe simple, or if you’re simply starting out, those are our top recommendations.
With that said, it is nice to have more than two jackets. If you already have a navy blazer and a brown tweed jacket, it could be time to consider some additional pieces, such as:
- Checkered tweed jackets
- A grey tweed jacket
- Forest green blazer
- Burgundy blazer
- Light-coloured summer jacket
As for more casual pieces, we’d recommend a Harrington and a Barbour jacket. Those fit nicely into a classic and cool wardrobe as well.
And then, additionally, a few winter coats. But more about that later.